Film Set or Old Town Street: Choosing Between the Qiao and Qu Family Courtyards

In Qixian (祁县), pick one. Qiao Family Courtyard (乔家大院) is the famous, polished compound in a village outside town, with film fame and crowds. Qu Family Courtyard (渠家大院) is quieter and cheaper, sits on a street inside Qixian's old town, and houses a merchant-history museum. Doing both in one day mostly repeats the same rooms.

What do the two have in common?

Both were homes of Qing-era Shanxi merchant families whose money came from trade and banking, the same world as the draft banks inside Pingyao's walls. Both are walled compounds built as a set of courtyards inside high blank outer walls, with carved brick, wood and stone throughout. If you have seen one well, the second will feel familiar. That is why we treat this as a choice, not a checklist.

Why choose Qiao?

Qiao is the one people have heard of. It was the home of the Qiao family, best known through the merchant Qiao Zhiyong, and it is the compound used as the main location for Zhang Yimou's film Raise the Red Lantern (1991), as well as a later TV drama about the family. It is a national 5A scenic area, so expect a large tourist operation: a car park, ticket halls, guides, shops and tour groups.

Inside, the compound is laid out on a clear plan with a long central lane between courtyards. It is restored, signposted and easy to follow. Choose Qiao if the film is part of the appeal, if you want the best-known example, or if you are travelling with people who prefer a well-organised site. Avoid the middle of a holiday day if you can. Go at opening or late in the afternoon.

Why choose Qu?

Qu is in Qixian's old town, on East Street (东大街), so you arrive on an ordinary town street rather than at a coach park. The Qu family was among Qixian's richest, and the compound's notable features include a five-courtyard axis you walk straight through, a stone-balustrade courtyard and a courtyard with its own stage. Part of it now houses a museum of Shanxi merchant history. If you are curious about how the banking and trade networks worked, the exhibits here give you more than Qiao's room-by-room displays.

It costs much less and is usually quieter. Choose Qu if you dislike crowds, want to see a small Shanxi county town as well, or care more about the merchant story than the film connection.

Can you do both, or pair one with something else?

You can do both in a day by car, since both are in Qixian between Taiyuan and Pingyao. But the second compound mostly repeats the first, so most people will get more from pairing one courtyard with something different. Qiao fits as a stop on the way between Taiyuan and Pingyao. If you only want one mansion for the whole trip and are willing to drive further, the hillside Wang Family Courtyard in Lingshi has the stronger setting. Do not try to do Qiao, Qu and Wang on one trip unless architecture is your main interest.

Tickets, hours and phone — what should you check?

Checked October 2026 (Asia/Shanghai). Each site's own notices win. Qiao sells tickets through its WeChat account and website. We did not find a stable official page for Qu, so the Qu figures below are a visible downgrade to Jinzhong Bendibao listings.

Qiao Family Courtyard. Full ticket 115 yuan, concession 58 yuan, real-name. Since 1 May 2026 it has been open 8:30–18:00, with ticket sales and entry checks stopping at 17:30. WeChat purchases must be made before 17:00 on the day. Phone 0354-3831421. Location: Qiaojiabu village, Dongguan town, Qixian.

Qu Family Courtyard. Listed at 40 yuan. Hours are listed as 8:00–18:00 on one site and until 18:30 on another, so treat the closing time as uncertain. Phone 0354-5223101. Location: 33 East Street, Qixian.

We could not confirm current bus timetables from Pingyao to either site. A hired car or taxi is the dependable option, and some Pingyao inns arrange day trips.

So which one?

Qiao, if you want the famous compound and do not mind crowds. Qu, if you want a quieter house in a real county town plus the merchant-history exhibits. Then spend the rest of the day on something different, such as Shuanglin and Zhenguo temples, rather than another courtyard.

Cover photo: Charlie fong / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)