Head of the Turtle: The Windy Cliffs of Yuantouzhu Peninsula

The land juts into the water like the broad, flat head of a swimming turtle. This is Yuantouzhu (鼋头渚, Yuántóuzhǔ), a rocky peninsula on the northern shore of Taihu Lake (太湖, Tàihú). The lake itself is huge, a shallow bowl of grey-green water that looks more like a quiet inland sea than a freshwater lake. Cold winds blow off the open water, carrying the smell of lake weeds and damp earth.

From the park gates, a paved road winds through groves of cherry trees. In spring, these paths are buried under white and pink blossoms. In summer and autumn, they are quiet. The old, gnarled trunks of the trees form a low canopy overhead, filtering the sunlight into green shadows. You walk past Changchun Bridge (长春桥, Chángchūn Qiáo), a stone arch built in the style of West Lake's classical bridges. Here, the water is calm, held in by low stone walls. Red carp swim below the bridge, waiting for visitors to drop bread crumbs.

Further down the shore, the stone paths turn rough. Granite cliffs rise from the water, their dark faces scarred by centuries of wind and waves. This is the oldest part of the park. Inscriptions are carved directly into the red and grey stone walls. On the highest point of the cliffs stands the Turtle Head Lighthouse (鼋头灯塔, Yuántóu Dēngtǎ), a white concrete column that has guided lake traffic since the early twentieth century. From this vantage point, the lake stretches to the horizon. In the distance, traditional seven-mast sailboats (七桅帆船, qīwéi fānchuán) slide across the water. Their wooden hulls sit low, and their high canvas sails catch the steady breeze. These vessels are rare now, kept mostly to preserve the old lake customs, but they look right against the grey water.

Below the lighthouse, a concrete pier juts out. This is where you board the ferry to Taihu Fairy Island (太湖仙岛, Tàihú Xiāndǎo). The passenger boats are large and double-decked, powered by rumbling diesel engines. The ride takes about twenty minutes. The boat rolls slightly in the lake chop, spray hitting the lower windows. Passengers crowd the upper deck, wind pulling at their hair, taking photos of the receding turtle-shaped peninsula.

The ferry docks at the island, a small cluster of hills that rises from the middle of the lake. A stone path leads away from the pier, passing under a white marble archway. The island is dedicated to Taoist folklore. The paths wind past statues of mythical guardians and shrines built into the limestone cliffs. You can hear the distant chiming of bronze bells and the smell of burning incense.

A suspension bridge connects the two halves of the island. Walk across it, feeling the slight sway of the cables. On the far side, a massive Daoist temple rises from the trees, its yellow walls contrasting with the dark green pines. Inside, a giant statue of the Jade Emperor sits in silence. Outside, the wind rustles through the pine needles, and the waves lap against the rocky shore below. It is quiet here, far from the busy streets of downtown Wuxi.

After exploring the island, take the return ferry. The afternoon light turns the lake a pale gold, casting long shadows across the turtle's head. Back on the mainland, you can walk the quiet forest paths back to the main gates.

Practical Beats

• Cost: A combined ticket for the Yuantouzhu scenic area costs 90 RMB. This price includes the round-trip ferry ride to the Taihu Fairy Island.
• Hours: The scenic area is open daily from 08:00 to 17:00. The last ferry back from the island departs around 16:30, so plan your time carefully.
• Getting There: Take Bus 1 from the bus terminal at Wuxi Railway Station (无锡站, Wúxī Zhàn). The ride takes about 45 minutes and costs 2 RMB. The bus drops you directly outside the main ticket gate.