The Second Spring: Tea Rituals and Erhu Melodies at Huishan Spring

The sound of the Erhu (二胡, èrhú) starts as a thin, reedy vibration before settling into a deep, crying hum. If you sit near the stone basin of the Second Spring Under Heaven (天下第二泉, Tiānxià dì èr quán) in Huishan Park (惠山公园, Huìshān gōngyuán) late in the afternoon, this sound is almost always there. It is the melody of The Moon Reflected in the Second Spring (二泉映月, Èrquán yìngyuè), a classic composition by the blind Wuxi folk musician Abing (阿炳, Ābǐng), who spent his life wandering these paths.

The spring itself is quiet. Water drips from a stone dragon head into a large rectangular pool, green with moss. In the eighth century, during the Tang Dynasty, the famous tea master Lu Yu (陆羽, Lù Yǔ) came to this spot. He was writing the first book on tea, the Classic of Tea (茶经, Chájīng). Lu Yu traveled China tasting waters, rating them by their clarity, temperature, and sweetness. He declared this spring the second-best in the country, noting how its cold, soft water allowed the delicate flavors of green tea to open up without bitterness.

Ever since, travelers have gathered here to drink tea brewed with this spring water. Local teahouses sit under the shade of ancient ginkgo trees, their tables set with small clay teapots and glass cups. When the hot spring water is poured over green tea leaves, the leaves rise and fall, turning the water a pale jade green. The taste is clean, slightly sweet, with a lingering dryness that clears the throat.

But the history of the spring is not just one of imperial scholars and tea rituals. It is also tied to the memory of Abing. Born Hua Yanjun, Abing was a Daoist priest who lost his sight and fell into poverty. He became a street musician, walking the paved alleys of Wuxi with his Erhu and Sanxian. His most famous piece, composed here by the water, mimics the flow of the spring and the reflection of the night sky. The Erhu has only two strings, but in Abing’s hands, it captured the sadness of his blindness, the quiet cold of the spring nights, and the beauty of the water.

Drinking tea here today is a slow, sensory experience. You hear the splash of the spring water, the clatter of porcelain lids on tea bowls, and the distant, weeping notes of the Erhu played by local street musicians. The smell of burning incense from nearby temples mixes with the fresh, grassy aroma of the tea. It is a place where you are forced to slow down, to listen, and to feel the cool air coming off the mountain.

To reach the spring, you must enter Huishan Park, which is part of the larger Huishan Old Town scenic area. While the old town streets are free to enter, the spring and its adjacent historical gardens require a ticket. This keeps the crowds relatively small, allowing you to find a quiet corner to sip your tea and let the music sink in.

Practical Beats

• Average Cost: A combo ticket to the historic gardens and the spring area inside Huishan Park (惠山公园, Huìshān gōngyuán) costs 70 RMB. A tea service at one of the teahouses next to the spring ranges from 30 to 80 RMB, depending on the quality of the tea leaves.
• Where to Go: The Second Spring Under Heaven is located within the historic garden section of Huishan Park (惠山公园, Huìshān gōngyuán).
• How to Get There: Take Metro Line 4 to Huishan Old Town Station (惠山古镇站, Huìshān gǔzhèn zhàn). Walk through the old town to reach the park ticket office.