Chengdu / modern

Glass Towers and Incense Smoke: Taikoo Li vs. Daci Temple

How a masterfully designed open-air shopping district built around a 1,600-year-old Buddhist sanctuary created Chengdu's most spectacular modern urban paradox.

Stand at the edge of Sino-Ocean Taikoo Li (太古里, Tàigǔ Lǐ) around 5:00 PM. To your left, double-height glass boutique facades catch the last of the afternoon sun. To your right, just past a single brick wall, the curved clay-tile eaves of Daci Temple (大慈寺, Dàcí Sì) rise into the haze. The air on that side smells different — sandalwood, beeswax, the low hum of someone chanting.

This wasn't an accident. Instead of bulldozing the temple to build another high-rise mall, the developers did something smarter: they wrapped an open-air, low-rise commercial district around the 1,600-year-old sanctuary. The design borrows traditional Sichuanese lane structures — sloping roofs, deep timber columns — but renders them in grey steel and structural glass. The old clay tiles sit right next to the new ones. It works better than it should.

Step through the red brick archway of Daci Temple and the shopping noise drops away. Founded during the Wei Dynasty (220–265 AD), Daci was once the largest Buddhist complex in Southwest China, known for its grand murals and for ordaining the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang (玄奘, Xuánzàng) before his famous sixteen-year pilgrimage to India. These days, elderly locals sit in the courtyard teahouse under massive ginkgo trees, sipping蓋碗茶 (gàiwǎnchá) while monks walk slowly past red prayer wheels. The Apple Store shimmers just across the lane. Nobody seems bothered by this.

That contrast is Chengdu in miniature. The city has chased the high-tech economy as hard as any place in China, but it didn't tear everything down to do it. You can browse luxury shops, duck into a side alley for spicy street noodles, and light incense under a Tang Dynasty eave — all in one afternoon, without rushing.

Practical Beats

  • Opening Hours:
    • Daci Temple is open daily from 08:00 to 18:00 (final entry at 17:30, admission is completely free).
    • Taikoo Li commercial district is open daily from 10:00 to 22:00.
  • Getting There: Take Chengdu Metro Line 2 or Line 3 directly to Chunxi Road Station (春熙路站). Take Exit C, and you will find the entrance to Taikoo Li and the temple lanes immediately in front of you.
  • The Travel Tip: Visit at 17:00. This lets you catch the quiet late-afternoon chanting inside Daci Temple, then walk outside as the sun sets and the steel-and-glass storefronts of Taikoo Li light up for the evening.

At 18:00 the temple gates close. A last curl of incense smoke drifts over the wall and dissolves into the neon glow of the shopping lanes. On one side, monks are sweeping the courtyard. On the other, someone is trying on sneakers.